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Nova Scotia South Shore Roadtrip: From Peggy’s Cove to Kejimkujik Seaside

After spending five days in Halifax, it was time to hit the road. We picked up our rental car and headed towards Nova Scotia’s South Shore – a region that feels like a postcard brought to life, full of lighthouses, colorful villages, and wild Atlantic coastlines.

For six nights, we based ourselves in Mahone Bay, staying at the cozy Bayview Pines, a guesthouse that felt like the perfect retreat after each day’s exploring. Our little apartment had its own deck with panoramic views over the ocean and the islands of Mahone Bay. Waking up to that scenery every morning never got old. Joanne and Chris, our lovely hosts, made us feel right at home and shared plenty of local tips for activities, the best beaches, and great places to eat.

The guesthouse was everything we’d hoped for: quiet, cozy, and with that small private beach exclusively for guests. Sitting outside with a coffee in the morning felt like a luxury in itself. Joanne jokingly told us, “You can swim if you are feeling adventurous or foolish.” Considering how freezing the water was, we decided to be neither adventurous nor foolish.

🛏️Where we stayed: Bayview Pines Country Inn

🛏️ Location: about 5 minutes by car from Mahone Bay’s center

🌊 Perks: private apartment, deck with water views, small beach access

🏡 Atmosphere: peaceful and friendly, the perfect base for South Shore day trips

💕 Ideal for: couples, slow travelers, anyone who loves a homely vibe

First Stop: Peggy’s Cove

Our journey from Halifax kicked off with a visit to Peggy’s Cove, one of Nova Scotia’s most iconic spots. Famous for its picturesque lighthouse perched on rugged rocks overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Peggy’s Cove draws thousands of visitors every year. But when we arrived, we quickly realized it’s not just a peaceful spot—it’s a tourist magnet.

It was a foggy morning, which gave the lighthouse and surrounding village a mystical, almost eerie atmosphere. By the time we arrived at around 10 a.m., the parking lot was already almost full. Tip: Arrive early (or later in the day) if you want to avoid the crowds.

The village itself is quaint, with a small cluster of shops and cafés, and the lighthouse provides some of the most stunning views along the coast. We spent two hours walking around, taking photos, and browsing the shops. But I’ll be honest—it felt a bit too busy for our taste. While the lighthouse and views are undeniably beautiful, the sheer number of tourists somewhat detracted from the tranquility we were hoping for.

⚠️ Important safety tip

Don’t climb on the black rocks! They are extremely slippery, and despite the warnings, every year there are incidents where people get hurt or killed.

As beautiful as Peggy’s Cove is, I have to admit it wasn’t my personal highlight. The South Shore has so many other gems that feel less touristy and more authentic. Still, it’s one of those places you almost have to see – if only to tick it off the list.

From there, the drive down towards Mahone Bay was smooth and scenic, with antique shops and ocean views popping up along the way. Definitely worth leaving a little extra time for spontaneous stops.

📸 Peggy’s Cove Highlights

Iconic Lighthouse: Great for photos, but crowded

Shops & Cafés: Ideal for browsing, but expect a lot of tourists

The Rocks: Breathtaking views, but be cautious of the slippery, dangerous surfaces

Mahone Bay – Our Charming Base

After a busy year of work and travel, we consciously decided not to switch accommodations every 1-2 nights during this trip. We wanted to slow down, take our time, and truly unwind—without the stress of constantly packing and unpacking. It was important for us to find a place where we could feel at home, yet also be close to all the amazing spots we wanted to explore along the South Shore.

After plenty of research, we found that Mahone Bay was the perfect place to base ourselves. This charming town turned out to be an ideal starting point for day trips to all the highlights we had planned. Not only did it offer a beautiful, peaceful setting for a longer stay, but it was also well-positioned for exploring nearby towns like Lunenburg, Peggy’s Cove, and the beautiful Kejimkujik Seaside National Park.

Having this quiet, picturesque town as our home for six nights allowed us to truly enjoy the area at a relaxed pace—whether it was sipping coffee by the water, strolling through Mahone Bay’s charming streets, or taking in the gorgeous views of the bay from our guesthouse deck.

Picture-perfect small town

Mahone Bay itself is a picture-perfect small town. Its most famous postcard view is the row of three historic churches lined up along the waterfront – you’ll see that photo everywhere, but it really is worth seeing in person. The town is also filled with boutique shops, artisan studios, and souvenir stores, perfect for a slow afternoon stroll.

We tried lobster rolls at Rebecca’s Restaurant, but honestly, they weren’t really our thing – maybe too fancy for our taste. I’d much rather go for good old fish and chips. What we did enjoy was the local pub “Mug and Anchor” (tip: fish & chips!) right on the water and Eli + Trix (tip: their tacos!). Both restaurants are located right in the centre of town on main street.

🍽️ Dinner Highlight: The Mug & Anchor Pub


Delicious comfort food in a unique English Style pub. The pub offers cozy indoor space and an outside patio. Nothing beats comfort food with a view of the bay. What’s more, they have 20 beers and two ciders and wines on tap!

Lunenburg – Colorful UNESCO Gem

Just a short drive from Mahone Bay lies Lunenburg, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and easily one of the prettiest towns in all of Nova Scotia. With rows of brightly painted wooden houses, a bustling fishing harbor, and a relaxed maritime vibe, Lunenburg feels like it’s straight out of a storybook.

We didn’t have an agenda here, and honestly, that’s part of the charm. Sometimes, the best way to explore a town like this is to take it slow and simply wander. Strolling along the harborfront, browsing small boutiques, and soaking in the colorful streets – there’s no need for a checklist when the town itself is the attraction.

If you’re in the mood for some local flavor, the Fisheries Museum is worth a visit, offering a glimpse into Lunenburg’s rich maritime history. But if you’re like us, sometimes it’s enough to just let the town’s peaceful vibe wash over you.

☕ Coffee Tip: Don’t miss No. 9 Coffee Bar – their iced coffee and pastries were amazing. We grabbed ours to go and enjoyed them while sitting by the harbor, watching the boats come and go.

📍 Travel Tip: Lunenburg

🏙️ Wander Through History: Stroll down the charming streets of Lunenburg, with its vibrant, colorful wooden houses. Each corner feels like a painting.

🚶‍♀️ Take Your Time: Don’t rush—wander, window shop, and pop into the many art galleries and boutiques. The town is small, but full of hidden gems!

🛥️ Harbor Vibes: The harbor is the heart of Lunenburg. Watch the boats, grab an ice cream, and enjoy the sea breeze. Don’t miss the Lunenburg Fisheries Museum for a peek into the town’s maritime history.

🍩 Caffeine Break: Stop by No. 9 Coffee Bar for delicious iced coffee and fresh pastries. Pro tip: Take it to go and enjoy your treats along the waterfront!

📸 Photo Op: The harborfront and those iconic colorful buildings are not only picturesque—they’re a photographer’s dream. Be sure to snap a few shots!

Blue Rocks – Kayaking & Zodiac Adventure

If you’re into outdoor adventures, Blue Rocks is a must. It’s just a few minutes from Lunenburg but feels worlds apart – a quiet fishing community with rocky islands and calm inlets that are perfect for kayaking.

We did a kayaking tour here with Pleasant Paddling (you’ll find the full story in my separate post 👉 “Kayaking in Blue Rocks“) and absolutely loved it. There’s something magical about paddling between the little islands, spotting seabirds, and feeling far away from everything.

Another highlight was a Zodiac boat tour with Ransom’s Lunenburg Retreat. Skimming across the waves in a small, fast boat was pure adrenaline – and seeing the coastline from the water gave us a whole new perspective. Plus we were lucky enough to see lots and lots of seals playing in the water or sunbathing on the rocks. Some even followed our Zodiac to check us out!

Kejimkujik Seaside – Wild & Untamed

One of my absolute favorite stops on this road trip was Kejimkujik Seaside National Park (or Keji Seaside for short). Unlike the inland Keji park, known for its serene forests and lakes, this coastal gem feels rugged and remote. Long stretches of white sand, turquoise waters, and wild coastal trails create a natural paradise that feels almost untouched by human hands. The wild beauty of the coastline, combined with the peaceful silence, made this one of the most memorable spots we visited.

The hike to the beach is moderate but well worth it. It’s not a difficult trail, but it takes some time to reach the shoreline, so be prepared for about 30–40 minutes of walking. Along the way, you’ll find yourself surrounded by lush vegetation and the sweet scent of saltwater in the air. It’s the kind of trail that invites you to stop and breathe in the fresh, coastal air at every turn. Be sure to bring plenty of water, some snacks, and of course, good footwear—the trail can be a little uneven at times.

The beach: Hidden Paradise

Once you reach the beach, you’ll be rewarded with an absolutely stunning view. The beach feels like a hidden paradise—no crowds, just the sound of the waves and the occasional call of seabirds flying overhead. It was the perfect spot to settle in for a peaceful picnic. We sat on the sand, eating lunch and watching seals sunbathing on the rocks—their dark forms lounging peacefully in the sun. Seabirds glided gracefully above us, making it feel like time slowed down completely. There’s something magical about eating with that view, surrounded by the tranquility of nature.

⚠️ Important

🐻 Bear Country: Always keep an eye out for bear warnings. Be bear-aware and store your food safely.

🦠 Bug Spray: Coastal areas can be buggy, especially during the warmer months, so keep your bug spray handy. I learnt this the hard way (12 mosquito bites while my friend had one – sweet blood, I guess!)

🌬️ Weather Warning: The weather by the coast can change quickly, so dress in layers and be prepared for sudden shifts in temperature or wind.

🍴 Pro Tip: There are no food vendors in the park, so bring your own picnic. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a quiet lunch with unbeatable views. We were lucky enough to watch seals and birds while picnicing, making the experience all the more unforgettable.

Quick Detour: Liverpool – A Mixed Stop

On our way back, we decided to make a little detour to Liverpool. To be honest, we were a bit disappointed. We had read about the Liverpool Lighthouse and had high hopes for another iconic lighthouse, similar to Peggy’s Cove. We imagined a charming, picturesque lighthouse perched on the rugged coastline, offering stunning views and a great place to explore. However, when we arrived, we quickly realized that it wasn’t quite what we had in mind.

We met a few other tourists who were equally surprised. The lighthouse itself was surprisingly small and quite plain—nothing like the dramatic, picturesque lighthouses we had seen along the coast. It was more of a square structure and didn’t have the same charm or grandeur that we had expected.

Additionally, we were there on a Sunday, which didn’t help matters. Many of the shops and cafés were closed, so there wasn’t much to do. The town definitely has potential, but on that particular day, it felt a bit quieter and less lively.

However, Liverpool does have one redeeming feature: it’s a lovely place for a peaceful walk along the waterfront. We took a stroll by the water, enjoying the calm, scenic views of the bay, but we quickly realized that an hour or two here were enough. If you’re passing through and need a place to stretch your legs, it’s a decent stop. But if you’re planning your itinerary, I wouldn’t recommend dedicating a full day to Liverpool.

Crescent Beach – Beautiful, Quiet and Private

One of the most unexpected and fun experiences on our South Shore adventure was our trip to Crescent Beach. At first, we were puzzled. There were no visible parking lots, and we couldn’t figure out where everyone was parking their cars. That’s when we saw it—people were driving directly onto the beach! The beach was so wide and expansive, with plenty of space for everyone to park their vehicles right next to where they set up for the day. It felt like a hidden gem, and the best part was that we had plenty of privacy. We spread out our towels right next to our car, giving us the perfect spot to relax and enjoy the views without feeling crowded.

The beach itself was beautiful—long stretches of soft sand with the Atlantic Ocean stretching out before us. The wide-open space gave the beach a sense of freedom, making it feel much more secluded and peaceful than other, more touristy spots. It was the perfect place to unwind, soak up the sun, and enjoy the quiet of the coast. We spent three blissful hours there, feeling like we had discovered our own private slice of Nova Scotia paradise.

Afterward, we made our way to The Osprey’s Nest for a lovely meal. The restaurant had a cozy atmosphere and was the perfect spot to end our relaxing afternoon by the beach. Good food, great ambiance, and an unbeatable view—it was the ideal way to wrap up such a unique experience.


📍 The Osprey’s Nest – Perfect Post-Beach Dining

🏖️ Location: Just a short drive from Crescent Beach, this charming restaurant offers the perfect spot to unwind after a relaxing day at the shore.

🍽️ Cuisine: The menu features fresh, locally sourced seafood and a variety of comforting dishes that perfectly complement the laid-back atmosphere of the area. Think fresh lobster, crispy fish and chips, and delicious seasonal sides.

🏡 Ambience: With its cozy, coastal vibe, The Osprey’s Nest is as much about the experience as it is about the food. The relaxed, welcoming environment makes it feel like the perfect place to linger after a day of sun and sea.

💆‍♀️ Why it’s a great choice: After spending a few hours at Crescent Beach, this was the ideal way to continue our relaxing day. The food was absolutely delicious, and the serene atmosphere allowed us to truly unwind and enjoy the moment.

Final Thoughts: The Heart of Nova Scotia’s South Shore

Driving along the South Shore of Nova Scotia felt like the perfect blend of iconic landmarks and hidden gems. From the popular, must-see spots like Peggy’s Cove and Lunenburg to the quieter, more secluded places like Blue Rocks and Kejimkujik Seaside, the route offered a rich variety of experiences. Each stop brought something unique, and while Peggy’s Cove can feel a bit touristy and crowded, we found that the further we traveled, the more relaxed and authentic the experience became.

One of the things I loved most about this part of Nova Scotia was the diversity in the landscapes. You go from the rugged, dramatic coastline of Peggy’s Cove to the charming harbor views of Lunenburg, then onto the wild, untouched beauty of Keji Seaside, where it feels like you’ve stepped into another world. The South Shore is a place where you can truly disconnect from the hustle and bustle, immerse yourself in nature, and experience the real Nova Scotia at its best.

Recs for a 4-5 days trip

If you only have a few days in Nova Scotia, I would recommend the following itinerary to get a taste of everything:

  • 1 day: Peggy’s Cove + Lunenburg – See the iconic lighthouse, stroll through the colorful streets of Lunenburg, and immerse yourself in the maritime history of the region.
  • 2–3 days: Add Mahone Bay and Blue Rocks – Mahone Bay is perfect for slow mornings, while Blue Rocks offers a chance for adventure with kayaking and Zodiac tours.
  • 4–5 days: Don’t miss Kejimkujik Seaside – Experience the wild beauty of the coastline and its secluded beaches. It’s a must for nature lovers and those seeking peace and quiet.

And if you’re lucky enough to spend a week like we did, Mahone Bay is the ideal base for a more laid-back experience, allowing you to explore the South Shore at a leisurely pace while soaking up the views.

I am already dreaming of going back next year!

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